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Cytrusowo, cytrynowo, kwaśno

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Cytrusowo, cytrynowo, kwaśno Znasz-li ten kraj,
Gdzie cytryna dojrzewa,
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(Wezwanie do Neapolu, Adam Mickiewicz)


Cytryna. Owoc niejednoznaczny, zbawienie chorujących na szkorbut podróżników (przynajmniej do czasu kiedy zaczęto stosować kiszoną kapustę – o chwała ci wielki kapitanie Cooku) i podpora wielbicieli wielu drinków. Doskonały dodatek do marynat drobiowych i perfekcyjne, kwaśne zastępstwo octu w kwaśnych sosach do sałatek. Jednym słowem – konieczny i perfekcyjny element kuchni narodów.

Wywodzący się od cytronu i limy owoc stał się jednym z kluczowych dodatków wzbogacających smak herbaty, elementem deserów, marynat i co tam się komu podoba. Cytryna to uniwersalny sposób na dosmaczenie potraw. Zarówno wspomnianych już marynat, jak i specyficzny dodatek do napojów i słodyczy. Tak czy inaczej, warto stosować cytrynę. Cytryna doskonale „złamie” ostrość potraw orientalnych (rzecz jasna limonka będzie równie, a nawet bardziej właściwa) i dostarczy odpowiedniego charakteru słodkościom, ze specjalnym wskazaniem na lukier. Po prostu – dodać nieco soku lub startej skórki i gotowe. Prosto i smakowicie.

Swoją drogą, zawsze uważałem i uważam, że najprzyjemniejsze są najłatwiejsze przepisy. Ot na przykład – kawior i szampan, ziemniaki z koperkiem i kwaśnym mlekiem, stek z perfekcyjnej wołowiny, wrzucony bez żadnych marynat, (może tylko oprószony odrobiną pieprzu) na patelnię z mocno nagrzanym tłuszczem. Taki jest również przepis na cytrynowo-czosnkowego kurczaka znanego choćby z programu niesamowitej Nigelli Lawson. W mojej wersji brak tymianku. Co prawda zioło to zacne i bez niego ratatouille i wiele innych potraw obyć się nie mogą, ale ja postanowiłem zastąpić go odrobiną sosu sojowego. W ten sposób potrawa budząca skojarzenia z kuchnią francuską, staje się dużo bardziej „wschodnią” w myśl zasady: Pomidory i oregano czynią potrawę włoską, wino i estragon – francuską. Kwaśna śmietana zamienia ją w potrawę rosyjską, a cytryna i cynamon – w grecką. Sos sojowy zamienia jedzenie w danie chińskie, a czosnek czyni je smacznym.

Oczywiście co do automatycznej "greckości" potraw zaprawionych cytryną lub cynamonem mam swoje, bardzo poważne wątpliwości. Choćby dlatego, że przypisywanie cytryny wyłącznie Grekom obraża choćby Arabów. Mniejsza. Metoda pieczenia kurczaka z całymi kawałkami owoców i warzyw jest urocza w każdej wersji, a osoby, które akurat są na diecie i powinny skupić się na „czystym” mięsie i warzywach (o czym nie chwaląc się, aczkolwiek niewątpliwie reklamując jak to się ostatni mówi „swoją osobę”, napisałem dwie książki), mogą dodać zamiast cytryn np. świeże marchewki czy szeroko pojętą jarzynę - jak to się mawia u nas w Galicji.

Bez względu jednak na dodatki, metoda pieczenia zawsze ta sama. Natartego przyprawami i w wersji wschodniej – sosem sojowym, pokrojonego na kawałki kurczaka, kładziemy na blasze wraz z ząbkami czosnku w łupinkach i dokładnie wymytą cytryną, pokrojoną w ćwiartki. Jeśli ktoś się nie odchudza, należy całość wymieszać z porządną oliwą (czyż muszę dodawać, że z pierwszego tłoczenia? – w końcu wszystko inne to wytłoczyny, a nie oliwa) i dodać nieco wytrawnego białego wina (w wersji z tymiankiem) lub wywaru warzywnego (o ile zastosujemy sos sojowy). Przykrywamy całość folią aluminiową i pieczemy w relatywnie niskiej temperaturze (160 stopni) do miękkości, przy czym sprawdzać należy najwcześniej po 1,5 godzinie. Gdy mamy pewność, że nasz kurczak jest upieczony, choć nie „przepieczony”, należy odkryć go i piec, aż skórka się zezłoci.

Tak przyrządzonego kurczaka podawać można zarówno z ryżem upieczonym na sypko, będzie bardziej „wschodnio” jak i z kawałkiem bagietki (cóż to za dodatek do pieczonego drobiu!), a jeśli ktoś sobie życzy, to może dorzucić na blachę kilka ziemniaków. Będą doskonałe, z czosnkowo - cytrynowym posmakiem. Tak czy inaczej – kurczak w tej wersji potrafi zaskoczyć.

Podobnie jak jedno z, moim zdaniem, najbardziej egzotycznych dań, które możemy przyrządzić w swoich domach, czyli mięsa w marynacie jerk. Jerk – klasyczna jamajska marynata, równie ważna dla kultury Jamajki jak Bob Marley, reggae, religia rastafari czy szeroko pojęte ziołolecznictwo. Jerk zawiera w sobie całą kulturę Jamajki. Wpływy brytyjskie, wyspiarskie, afrykańskie… Po prostu w jerku jest wszystko.

Przepis również prosty – bierzemy (na jednego kurczaka): pół cebuli, główkę obranego czosnku, 2 ostre papryczki (najlepsze scotch bonnet, ale jeśli nie znajdziecie, a raczej możecie nie znaleźć, to inne chilli też może być, ważne aby było piekielnie ostre), pół łyżki sosu sojowego, sok z całej cytryny, sok z połowy pomarańczy, łyżeczka brązowego cukru i kluczowy dodatek jerku – ziele angielskie. W tej wersji ziele powinno być zmielone, warto przedtem lekko uprażyć je na suchej patelni – na tę ilość marynaty, łyżeczka będzie odpowiednia. Dla mnie to właśnie ziele angielskie jest tym smakiem, który powinien dopełniać sok z cytryny. Doprawiamy całość suszonym tymiankiem, mielonym pieprzem, szczyptą gałki muszkatołowej i szczyptą cynamonu. Dodajemy sól – do smaku. Następnie miksujemy i dokładnie mieszamy z oliwą (2-3 łyżki).

Tak przygotowaną marynatą zalewamy pokrojonego surowego kurczaka. Tu drobna uwaga. Najlepszym sposobem marynowania mięsa jest umieszczenie go, oczywiście wraz z marynatą, w foliowym worku, usunięcie nadmiaru powietrza (aby został nią dokładnie otoczony) i pozostawienie mięsa na co najmniej dobę w lodówce. Nie dotyczy to jedynie mięsa o samodzielnym, intensywnym smaku, którego nie trzeba zabijać – czyli wołowiny i jagnięciny, bo taka na przykład baranina często wymaga pozbawienia jej „wrodzonego” zapachu, a kurczak wprost przeciwnie powinien być o intensywny smak wzbogacony.

To było odniesienie ogólne, zaś w przypadku kurczaka (moim zdaniem najlepsze mięso do jerkowania, jak nazywa się procedurę marynowania w jerku) obowiązuje zasada – im dłużej tym lepiej. Choć oczywiście należy pamiętać, że mamy do czynienia z ostrą, kwaśną, marynatą, więc „przemarynowane” mięso zacznie się rozpadać – trzeba tego uniknąć. Tak czy inaczej - noc w marynacie nie powinna zaszkodzić naszemu kurczakowi.

Mięso pieczemy na grillu. Cukier zawarty w marynacie powinien pięknie karmelizować, ale mimo to trzeba uważać, aby kurczaka nie przypalić. Mięso ma pozostać soczyste w środku i przy gryzieniu uwalniać cały zasób niezwykłych cytrusowo – „allspicowych” (czyli jakbyśmy powiedzieli w Polsce „zieloangielskowych”) aromatów.

Do tak przyrządzonego kurczaka najlepiej zapodać sobie jakiegoś „jamajskiego” drinka, oczywiście bazującego na rumie, a o ile ktoś nie lubi mocnych alkoholi w żadnej wersji (popieram, popieram, szczególnie ostatnio…), to warto pokusić się o podanie niewielkiej ilości aromatyzowanego cytryną piwa lub po prostu lemoniady.

W następnym odcinku – mniej znane „kwaskowatości” takie jak trawa cytrynowa, tamarynda i liście limonki kafir.
Prześlij do znajomego Wersja do druku

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