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Ostro, kwaśno, kokosowo To już drugi felieton kulinarny poświęcony kuchennym zastosowaniom kokosów.

W poprzednim odcinku wspomniałem o odkryciu kokosów przez Portugalczyków – nic dziwnego, że do dziś genialnie rośnie w skolonizowanej przez nich Brazylii, stając się jednym z kluczowych dodatków tamtejszej kuchni. W kuchni prowincji Bahia, znanej z wpływów afrykańskich, szczególnie opartej na transie religii – candomble, kokos jest jednym z podstawowych produktów. Jeden z regionów prowincji znany jest jako Wybrzeże Kokosowe, co samo w sobie świadczy o jego roli w miejscowej gospodarce, a więc i dla opisania kulinarnej roli kokosa kuchnia ta stanowi nie lada zaplecze. Poza tym jeśli ktoś jest przywiązany do poszukiwania produktów (ryba żabnica, okoń morski) i stosowania niecodziennych dla polskiej kuchni technik gotowania (garnek typu „clay pot”), to będzie mógł spokojnie dać wyraz swemu wyrafinowaniu kulinarnemu przy prostej ale bardzo smacznej afro-brazylijskiej potrawie „moqueca – przyrządzanej z owoców morza lub ryb. Z kokosem? Przyznacie że to ciekawe połączenie.

Tu mała dygresja. Nic tak bardzo nie szkodzi kuchni jak trzymanie się jednorodnych zasad tworzenia potraw. To co najważniejsze w kuchni to – różnorodność, wzajemna inspiracja i poszukiwanie rożnych rozwiązań kulinarnych. Tak właśnie wygląda kuchnia afrokubańska – jak połączenie ducha Afryki i produktów wywodzących się z rejonów, w których mieszkańcom Afryki było dane wieść smutny żywot niewolnika. Cóż nikt (a przynajmniej nikt normalny) nie popiera niewolnictwa, jednak warto zauważyć, że dzięki temu kulturalnemu miksowi mamy potrawy takie jak cudowny „gulasz” gumbo czy właśnie „moqueca”.

W przyszłości będę jeszcze pisał o potrawach afrykańskich, afrobrazylijskich czy afrokubańskich. To co je łączy, to gotowanie różnorodnych produktów tak długo aby przeszły nawzajem swym smakiem. Tak jest również w przypadku zaprawionej kokosem moqueki.

Najpierw dokładne siekanie – kolendra, pomidory, czerwone chili, szczypiorek, cebula-dymka i ucieranie czosnku z solą na pastę. Nagrzewamy „clay pot” (na polskim rynku dostępny jest tzw. Römertopf – niedługo napiszę więcej o gotowaniu „w mokrej glinie”) i wrzucamy do środka posiekane wcześniej produkty i pastę z czosnku, gdy zaczną pachnieć, a zaczną pachnieć intensywnie, przykręcamy gaz i kładziemy na wierzchu filety z tuńczyka (może być też na przykład żabnica lub okoń morski, ale świeży tuńczyk jest łatwiej dostępny) wcześniej dokładnie osuszone czystą ściereczką, a następnie polane obficie sokiem z cytryny i posolone. Dodajemy olej palmowy (tzw. dende – niestety jest konieczny dla uzyskania prawdziwego smaku tej potrawy) i mleczko kokosowe. Całość dusimy w zależności od naczynia i ilości ryby. Na dobrze ponad kilogram ryby – raczej nie więcej niż 25 minut, nie powinna się rozpadać. Z białym ryżem – idealne, słodkawe, ostre i morskie. Yeah.

Stosowanie mleczka kokosowego w kuchni afrokubańskiej łączy się przede wszystkim z obecnością kokosa na ciepłych, oceanicznych wybrzeżach (można by nawet powiedzieć że pleni się tam niczym chwast), a tam właśnie skupiało się życie kolonii i większość obecnych w koloniach niewolników. Właśnie dla niewolników, pozbawionych możliwości decydowania o sobie, ale świadomych możliwości, które daje przyroda, wysokokaloryczny i nie pozbawiony właściwości leczniczych kokos był błogosławionym owocem, przywracającym zdrowie skórze i żołądkowi.

Jak widać po przepisach można by pokusić się o pewne ogólne zasady stosowana mleczka i śmietanki kokosowej. Idealnie miksuje się z kolendrą i bardzo ostrym chilli, poza tym świetnie pasuje do potraw typu „curry”, a często aż woła o limonkę i cytrynę. Ogólnie dużo aromatycznych przypraw, ostro i z kolendrą. Resztę zostawmy inwencji gotującego.

Oczywiście kokos to nie tylko jedzenie „na słono i ostro”. Jest podstawą wielu fascynujących deserów, jak na przykład bananów w mleczku kokosowym. Ten prosty wietnamski (chuć zapewne są też inne wersje) przepis, zakłada gotowanie pokrojonych w kilka kawałków bananów w mleku kokosowym z dodatkiem sporej ilości cukru. Tu zresztą kryją się i plusy i minusy tego deseru. Moja narzeczona po zjedzeniu bananów w mleczku kokosowym poczuła się hm..., nie najlepiej, właśnie w związku z dużą ilością cukru (trzy czwarte szklanki na trzy banany i dużą puszkę mleka kokosowego). Prawdopodobnie europejskie żołądki nie są przygotowane na tak daleko idące zasłodzenie. Mimo to proponuję zrobienie tego prostego deseru. Wystarczy podgrzać nieco mleko kokosowe, posłodzić je i leciutko posolić, dorzucić banany i podgotować dwie minuty. Gotowe. Słodkie jak diabli, ale jak dla mnie – pyszne. I co ważne, natychmiast kojarzy się z tropikami, a że idzie straszna jesień – każdy tropik jest fajny.

W pierwszej części tekstu o kokosach pomstowałem na smutne czasy komunizmu, kiedy to zdążyłem znienawidzić wiórki kokosowe. Jednym z powodów tego gorącego negatywnego uczucia były wszechobecne kokosanki. O ich popularności zadecydowały zapewne identyczne powody jak w przypadku bez – dzięki kokosankom można „zagospodarować” białka pozostałe po wielu ciastach czy, na przykład, kręceniu majonezu. Wystarczy do wiórków kokosowych (ćwierć kilo) dodać trzy czwarte szklanki cukru, nieco mleka i margarynę do pieczenia (przepisy mówią o połowie kostki, ja ze swojego doświadczenia wiem, że powinno jej być zdecydowanie mniej – ćwierć kostki powinno wystarczyć) a następnie chwilę razem podgotować. Do uzyskanej masy należy dodać ubitą pianę (według przedstawionych tu proporcji – z trzech białek), a następnie już tylko wykładać masę na pergamin w piekarniku rozgrzanym do 180 stopni. Ja osobiście nie przepadam, ale dorośli („do kawy”) i dzieci to uwielbiają. Bezy lepsze, ale redaktorski obowiązek każe wspomnieć o tej metodzie wykorzystania kokosa.

A po wszystkim proponuję pinacoladę, abyśmy nie zapomnieli o tym, że kokos nadaje się również do drinków. Jedna część białego rumu (ale zapewniam, że brązowy, byle dobry, także będzie pasował - wiem bo próbowałem), jedna część śmietanki kokosowej i do trzech części soku z ananasa. Zmiksować i pić z lodem lub bez. Słodkie i alkoholowe, czegóż chcieć więcej. Idealnie ugasi żar po tajskim zielonym curry lub kormie, które to przepisy podawałem w pierwszej części tekstu o kulinarnym wykorzystaniu kokosów... Gdyby zaś ktoś nie trawił napojów alkoholowych – zapraszam do eksperymentowania. Mleczko lub śmietanka kokosowa będą doskonałym uzupełnieniem dla takich owoców jak: ananas, banan, cytryny czy pomarańcze (można spokojnie zrobić różnorodne bezalkoholowe wariacje na temat pinacolady dodając nieco aromatu rumowego do ciast).

Eksperymentowanie w kuchni, nawet gdy kończy się nieudanym eksperymentem, jest jak to mawiało się w czasach PRL – „motorem postępu” . A poza tym kokos miksuje się doskonale z wymagającymi „dosmaczenia” i złagodzenia, kwaśnymi i ostrymi potrawami południa, często w sposób zaskakujący dla gotującego.
Eksperymentujmy więc.
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